Designing with Intention: Aligning Gem, Alloy, and Setting Choices

Fridays, July 17, 2026 - July 24, 2026; 10:00AM - 12:00PM PT (Pacific Time)

Online

Zoom

Cost: $130


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In jewelry design, beauty is only half the story — the other half is engineering. This lecture format focused class bridges gemology and metalsmithing to help you make informed, intentional design decisions that respect both material and craft. You’ll develop a practical understanding of gemstone durability — hardness, toughness, and stability — and what these properties actually mean at the bench and in everyday wear. We’ll challenge common assumptions, explore how environmental factors affect different gems, and translate this knowledge into real design choices.

We then turn to precious metal alloys, examining how properties such as hardness, ductility, malleability, toughness, and elasticity influence fabrication, performance, and longevity. Finally, we bring everything together: how to pair gemstones with appropriate alloys and choose setting strategies that protect the stone while supporting your design vision.

You’ll leave with a clear framework to align materials and design — so your jewellery is not only beautiful, but structurally sound and made to last.

What you’ll learn:
Gem Properties — beyond “hard or soft”

  • Why hardness is often misunderstood
  • Toughness and its real impact on wearability
  • Stability: heat, chemicals, and light in studio and daily wear
  • Case study examples using common gemstones (diamond, sapphire, tourmaline,
  • quartz, etc.)

Alloy Behaviour — understanding your metals

  • Key mechanical properties: hardness, ductility, malleability, toughness, elasticity
  • How alloys behave differently during fabrication and in wear
  • How to manipulate metal properties to support your design

Designing with intention

  • Matching gemstones with appropriate metals
  • Recognizing combinations that work — and those that don’t

Setting strategies

  • Prong, bezel, channel, pavé, and alternative settings
  • Protective considerations and structural choices

You’ll gain a practical decision-making framework you can apply immediately when designing, buying, or setting gemstones. Designed for jewellers, designers, and serious enthusiasts who want to deepen their understanding of how materials behave — and design with greater clarity and competence.

 

This course is available as a live online class. Please check this page for times and formats available.

Recordings of this class are available for 30 days from the final class session.

Prerequisites:

None, open to all. 

Instructor:

Christine Dwane (Guest)

If a class is online, or is a combination online and in-person session, all students receive a link to a recording of the class demonstrations. In-person only workshops are not recorded. For staff instructor classes, students have access to the recordings for one year. For guest instructors, access is 30 days. 

If a kit is included with the class, online students will have them mailed to them. Kits for in-person students are delivered at the beginning of the first class. More information about the kit is included with the supplies list which is emailed after registration.

International students may be charged an additional amount for shipping, because of the increased cost to ship abroad. Also, shipments to other countries may incur a tariff payable by the student. International students are welcome to contact us re: these costs and options for their materials. Please be sure that the address with your payment is the correct one for shipping.

If there is an in person section for this class, in person students each have a bench and a complete set of tools to use, including torches, flex shaft, and more. 

If this class is offered online, it uses the Zoom app/website. Through Zoom, you’ll be able to see demos and follow instructions, ask questions and interact with your instructor. Zoom is easy to use and free for students to use for class, and works on most devices, like phones (iPhone, Android, etc), tablets (iPads, etc), and computers (Mac or PC).

Your instructor is also available during free Zoom office hours for questions and help.

For classes that include work time, online students work at home or in their studio. All of our recommended tools and the kit materials are chosen to be home studio friendly. Links to preferred vendors are provided in the supplies list sent after registration. Some classes, like our short demo only classes, don't require tools or materials to attend. 

And now the fine print. Payment in full for class fees is due at the time of registration to reserve your place. Our online registration system accepts credit cards and other methods. Checks and cash are accepted only if you register at school. If you mail a check, your registration is not processed until it clears and the class may fill during the wait. 

If the workshop is canceled by our school for any reason, all class fees will be refunded, or you can transfer to another class, or you can keep a credit on account with us for future classes or purchases, 

Students can cancel, receive a credit or refund, or transfer to another class up to 21 days before a workshop, whether it is online or in person. No cancellations are accepted after the 21-day deadline, however, we will do what we can to try and sell your place to a qualified student. If we can sell your place, you can receive a refund less a $50 cancellation fee, keep a credit on account with us, or apply your fees towards a transfer to another class. 

If you can’t make it to class, you may send a participant who has the necessary prerequisites in your place. Please call or email us immediately with any changes in the student participant information. If a class includes an online section, your class will be recorded and you can watch later to make up a class you miss. 

Students must be at least 15 years old to attend a class, and students under 18 must have a legal guardian sign our liability waiver form. We have had younger students attend classes, on a case by case basis. If you’re interested in enrolling your child, please call or email us. 

If you sign up for a class and fail to have the required prerequisites as listed in the class description, you are still subject to the 21-day cancellation policy, listed above.

Lodging and meals are not included for in person classes.

If you don't come to class, there are no refunds, credits or transfers.